And so the trip finishes. Last night we had a program-closing dinner cruise around the island of Abu Dhabi, where we exchanged gifts, made speeches, and said goodbyes. Now, we have the whole day to kick back and reflect. We are back in Abu Dhabi today after going through Al Ain oasis yesterday and visiting the Sheikh Zayed Islamic Center. It seems like I have been in the UAE forever–returning to Abu Dhabi feels like a homecoming of sorts. I’m partial to Abu Dhabi’s plan for growth, relative to Dubai’s–it seems more calculated, more planned, more environmentally responsible, more careful, and more sustainable. It’s not getting the headlines that Dubai is, but I believe that in about 20 years Abu Dhabi will look much smarter than Dubai on the international scene.
Dubai faces most of the problems that Atlanta faces of collective action–overloaded infrastructure, terrible traffic, lack or public transport, and power/water delivery problems. Abu Dhabi is planning better for those, in my opinion. The two cities have different approaches to growth–we’ll see which one wins out.
Enough thoughts about urban planning. I get on a plane at 9 AM tomorrow morning, and will be traveling for about 30 hours straight (Abu Dhabi-London-Chicago-Atlanta). I’ll have plenty of time to reflect then, and will put those reflections in this space, but for now, I have three main thoughts:
1. I am going back to America. Thank goodness. I have loved the UAE. The people here are incredibly hospitable. I won’t know what to do when I go back home and I don’t have friends looking after my every need at all times. I have learned a tremendous amount by good, honest people who genuinely want to share their culture with me. Before then, I have spent three months in the UK, another great country with a unique culture of its own. But being abroad on ambassadorial programs, even for three months, means that many of my conversations are self-consciously cross-cultural. And in comparing the US culture with those around the world, it makes me very, very proud of my country. I can’t wait to get back.
2. I also didn’t realize what a disaster American foreign policy can be. I have been talking with my Emirati friends every day of this trip. And addressing what the Bush Administration has done holds back so much progress. I mean, I disapproved of the Bush foreign policy before I came here, but having to defend the Bush Administration almost every day for the last three months in England and constantly here in the UAE is a bit tiring. I love my country, and I don’t back down, but it’s difficult to advance U.S. interests and look towards the future sometimes when people from other countries (often justifiably) can’t get past mistakes that we have made in the past. After being here in the Middle East and talking about the future of the region with active citizens of its most stable country, I have reached one conclusion: I can’t wait to get a new President.
3. The idea of a “cultural exchange”, which this program is, is interesting in itself. Exchange has happened on several levels.
First, there is the “substance” vs. “style” of what an exchange is. The substance of the exchange is very simple. “What is dating life like here? What do you do for fun? What do you think of X policy? How do you deal with Iran? Which sports teams do you root for?” The STYLE of the exchange, on the flip side, is a different story. In America, we are very critical of our government and our institutions–we think that criticism makes people better and stronger. In the UAE, the Emirati have said that they are suprised at how critical we are even of institutions that are doing really great things (and there are a lot of people here who are doing amazing things!) Then they saw how we also asked tough questions to our OWN government officials, too, when we visited with the U.S. Embassy, and it made a bit more sense. In the culture here, you can ask skeptical questions or make counterpoints, but you have do it an a completely different way than we do in the US.
Emiratis love their government, they are (I think, for good reason) fervent defenders of their government, lifestyle, and culture, and have a desire to make the country the best they can be. But when I have leveled criticisms against several problems I see here, I have been met with resistance–people point out problems with American government, too. My grandfather always says, in response to “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” “how can we make this better?” The culture here does not respond well to merely pointing out how something is broke (for example, questioning investment policy in Sudan or environmental sustainability). Instead, the most productive discussions I have had have been implying that something might be broke, but talking about solutions of how to make it better (for example, talking about the political and moral benefits the UAE might get from divesting from Sudan, or how environmental concerns could create a sustainable post-oil economy). Learning how to ask questions and reach solutions in a culture that has leaders who don’t like to be criticized, viewing it as embarrassment (which is something I have come to understand and accept) has been valuable.
Enjoying the rest of the day. Will write more comments, post pictures, etc.–probably from the Chicago airport or Heathrow on one of my many layovers back home.
Masalaama, and many happy returns
ERB
December 22, 2007 at 6:08 pm
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December 22, 2007 at 6:27 pm
Glad to hear that you’re taking the most out of your visits, Ross. A few things I’d like to comment on…
1. “the UK, another great country with a unique culture of its own.” I admire your optimism, but that is a bit much… The kingdom is made up of four states hardly distinguishable from each other with respect to culture because they all lack it altogether; yet they are constantly quarreling on issues such as the trivial Welsh Flag and the archaic West Lothian Question. Though I have limited interaction with the locals, the ones I come across are some of the least competent in the world. These two symptoms (regionalism and amateurism) are exactly what the UK stands for, to me — and they stem from this “unique” culture that you speak of, that has made a horridly bureaucratic government that only seems so impressive on the Parliament Channel.
2. “But being abroad on ambassadorial programs, even for three months, means that many of my conversations are self-consciously cross-cultural.” I don’t fully comprehend your self-consciousness. I find these so-called “differences between cultures or nations” as pretexts for conventional ambassadorial missions (though yours doesn’t sound like them), where people go to understand the differences and exit the conference room with the outstanding position of agreeing to disagree. But through my travels I learned that so many qualities and values are universal; we’re human beings with instincts, basic needs, and a desire for happiness. Most of all, we want to be free of insecurities. The Emiratis have to defend their government partly because they depend so heavily on it; it’s their life support. Almost like the Sicilians to the mafia (though quite different in many regards). But once their bellies are full (to put it in the most cynical way), they will see more to criticise. That’s how we improve, no? Your sentences on the constructive discussion vs. plain criticism are revealing.
3. I have found it each time so fascinating to follow the order of an average tourist’s observation: does he/she notice the familiar or the strange first? I won’t tell you what my conclusion is since it’s a work in progress. But it is always a pleasure to read your blog because you’re so downright honest.
At any rate, I believe cultures today lay themselves powerless to a zero sum game between Lexus and the Olive Tree. They have to evolve, too, and the more active they are, the less they will be victims.
December 30, 2007 at 11:02 pm
I assume Jay is trolling to provoke a response to his arrogant (not to say plain ignorant) statement about the UK or its constituent parts lacking culture. Good grief. Perhaps he would like to define the word culture, just in case it’s wholly other in his head from what most people understand it to be? But in any case, he clearly needs to spend more time in Wales, Scotland, England, and Northern Ireland (or indeed Ireland itself) and less time watching the Parliament Channel or reading the Daily Mail (or whatever).